Rock climbing has a lot of terminology, especially regarding sending (completing) climbs. The most commonly used are ‘onsight, ‘flash,’ and ‘redpoint.’ Each has slightly different caveats despite each signifying that you completed the climb without falling. Onsighting a climb is a significant accomplishment and something to be proud of because it means you do the climb on your first go without any information about it (i.e., beta). A flash is also impressive because, again, it’s when you do the climb on your first go. Unlike onsighting a climb, you can have prior information about the beta and holds if you flash a climb. Finally, redpointing a climb is when you complete the climb. It has no special conditions other than not falling along your path to the top or weighting the rope (when sport climbing).
You may have heard the term onsight-comp about World Cup competitions or the Olympics, as that is the format. The athletes, other than the quick preview before the start of the round, have no prior information on the boulder or lead route. Some climbers may argue that onsighting is the most impressive type of send. Regardless, onsighting climbs, especially challenging climbs, earns you street cred in the climbing community. But that’s because it is hard to do. However, every climber deserves the encouragement to try for that onsight, so to help you earn that street cred, here are five tips for onsight climbing.
5 Onsight Climbing Tips
1. Accept that you’ll have to try hard.
Sometimes, when assessing a climb, a climber faces a daunting challenge, thinking it is within their reach but will require effort. However, as they progress on the route, they encounter a much more demanding move than expected. This unexpected difficulty can be a significant mental hurdle, leading to feelings of panic, over-gripping, and even fear creeping in. The climber may find themselves questioning their abilities and facing a moment of uncertainty.
Nevertheless, if the climber approaches the climb with the mindset that exerting maximum effort may be necessary, they can better prepare themselves mentally for the challenging moments ahead. By acknowledging the possibility of encountering challenging sections and accepting the need to give their all, they equip themselves with the resilience needed to persevere when faced with heightened intensity. This mental preparation can make a crucial difference in navigating the climb, enabling them to push through the tough spots with determination and focus.
In essence, embracing the idea that the climb may require everything the climber has to offer allows the climber to confront unexpected difficulties with a sense of readiness and composure. This mental fortitude enhances their performance on the climb and fosters a mindset of resilience and adaptability in the face of challenges. By acknowledging the potential for tough moments and committing to giving their best effort, climbers can empower themselves to overcome obstacles and reach new heights in their climbing journey.
2. Don’t rush
The desire to reach the summit often leads to a sense of urgency when embarking on a climbing journey. However, it is crucial to remember that haste can pave the way for avoidable errors that may jeopardize your ascent. Rushing through the climb increases the likelihood of making trivial mistakes such as slipping on footholds, skipping essential holds in the sequence, and relying solely on physical strength rather than strategic thinking. Each of these missteps has the potential to abruptly end your onsight attempt, thwarting your progress and leaving you frustrated.
Therefore, it is advisable to adopt a patient approach to climbing. For instance, if you find yourself on ropes and encounter a suitable resting spot, use it to catch your breath and regain your composure. Similarly, exercising restraint becomes even more critical when navigating boulders, especially when analyzing the climb ahead. While you may not seek advice or beta from fellow climbers during an onsight attempt, investing additional time in studying the route and planning your sequence meticulously can significantly enhance your chances of success.
Remember, the legitimacy of your onsight endeavor is not solely determined by the speed at which you conquer the challenge. Taking five extra minutes to scrutinize the problem, visualize your moves, and strategize your approach can make a difference. By prioritizing precision over haste, you minimize the risk of errors and cultivate a more mindful and deliberate climbing style that is conducive to long-term progress and success on the rock.
3. Breathe
When engaging in activities that require effort and concentration, such as physical exercise or problem-solving, it is common for individuals to hold their breath involuntarily. However, this instinctive reaction can be counterproductive. By holding your breath, you limit the flow of oxygen to your body, which can lead to quicker fatigue and decreased performance. Moreover, the lack of oxygen can trigger feelings of panic or anxiety, further hindering your ability to stay calm and focused.
Instead of succumbing to the urge to hold your breath, focusing on controlling your breathing is beneficial. By consciously regulating your breath, you can ensure a steady oxygen supply to your muscles, optimizing their performance and endurance. This enhances your physical capabilities and contributes to maintaining mental clarity and preventing negative thought patterns from taking hold.
In essence, mastering the art of controlling your breath is a valuable skill that can positively impact your performance, whether in sports, work, or daily life challenges. By prioritizing proper breathing techniques, you empower yourself to stay centered, energized, and resilient in the face of obstacles.
4. Don’t be afraid to downclimb
When aiming to onsight a route and realizing that you may have tackled a section out of sequence, it is crucial to maintain a calm and strategic approach. In such situations, it is perfectly acceptable – and even beneficial – to backtrack by downclimbing to a secure hold, allowing yourself to reassess the sequence and regain composure. This practice demonstrates adaptability and problem-solving skills and contributes to overall safety by preventing potential falls or risky moves.
While downclimbing is more commonly associated with roped climbing due to the added security of the belay system, boulderers can also employ similar techniques to rectify sequencing errors. In bouldering, one might find creative solutions such as matching a hold or utilizing footholds differently to adjust the order of movements. These adjustments require a keen eye for detail, spatial awareness, and a willingness to experiment with different beta.
By embracing downclimbing to correct sequencing mistakes, climbers can enhance their mental resilience, refine their movement skills, and improve their performance on challenging routes. This problem-solving approach fosters a deeper understanding of the climb and cultivates a mindset of continuous learning and growth in climbing.
5. Don’t worry about climbing “pretty.”
When attempting a climb for the first time without any prior knowledge or beta, it is common for your performance to lack the finesse and grace that comes with familiarity. Your initial onsight attempt and subsequent send are unlikely to showcase the cleanest execution of your climbing skills. As you push yourself to the limit and strive to avoid any falls, it is natural for your movements to become somewhat scrappy. This may manifest in more frequent smearing, louder foot placements, excessive overgripping, or even unnecessarily matching holds along the route.
The essence of onsighting lies in the thrill of tackling unknown terrain and solving the puzzle as you ascend. It tests your adaptability, problem-solving skills, and ability to read the rock on the fly. Therefore, it is normal for your climbing style to appear less refined and more improvised during these attempts. The focus shifts from fluidity and efficiency to sheer determination and quick decision-making.
While it is possible to revisit the climb later and ascend it with greater efficiency and finesse, it is important to acknowledge that not every onsight experience will feel smooth or flowy. Embrace the challenge, learn from the process, and appreciate the raw intensity of pushing your limits spontaneously and unscripted. The imperfections and rough edges of your onsight attempts only add to the richness and authenticity of the climbing experience.
Ultimately, most of these tips aim to get you out of your head and eliminate the mental challenges of sighting a climb. The physical challenges are a battle enough that you don’t want to get in your way by overthinking. Most importantly, have fun and be confident. If you follow this advice, have a good time, and believe that you are capable, your chances of successfully onsight climbing will shoot up! If you have time, please comment below if you found this article helpful, and feel free to share your onsight stories and tips!
Comments