Getting your belay certification is an exciting step on your rock climbing journey. It’ll allow you to venture beyond the auto-belays and boulder mats, form belaytionships, and challenge yourself in new ways.
Rock gyms don’t require belay tests to trick or scare you away. They are in place to ensure you know the safety procedures so you and those you climb with have an enjoyable and accident-free experience. To help you have a stress-free certification experience, here are ten things you should know before getting your belay certification. Once you learn these skills, practice them at home before test day.
10 Tips Before Belaying Certification
Note: These tips are only for top-rope belay certification.
1. Is your harness on properly?
This first step is to know if your harness is on correctly and recognize if your climbing partner’s is, too. The checks to ensure proper positioning are as follows:
● Untangled/untwisted leg loops
● The waist strap sits above the hip bones
● The belay loop in the front.
● The tightness of the waist strap passes the 2-finger test.
Slide two fingers between your hip and the harness parallel to your body. Turn your fingers as if you wanted them flat against your hip. Do they cross? If yes, the harness is tight enough. If no, tighten more.
● The leg loops can be tightened to preference.
2. What belay device are you testing on? How does it work?
Depending on the climbing gym, you will likely have to declare which type of belay device you are testing on. Some gyms may require a specific belay device, while others will let you choose or make you perform a separate belay test for each device you wish to use.
The most commonly used belay devices are ATCs or GRIGRIs. Assuming you are testing on one of those, here is a basic understanding of each device’s mechanics.
● ATC
The ATC is a friction-plate belay device. The belayer is completely responsible for the rope’s movement through the device, using their hand to control the speed at which the rope moves.
● GRIGRI
A GRI GRI is an assisted braking device (note that it is NOT an automatic belay device). It has a cam built into it that helps the belayer prevent the rope from sliding through the device under the sudden, quick weighting of the rope. With a lever, the belayer can release the cam when engaged.
3. Is the belay device properly set up?
In addition to understanding how the belay device works, you’ll want to know how to set it up properly. Here is an overview of the critical checks to ensure a safe setup on an ATC or GRIGRI.
● ATC
○ The carabineer is through the ATC, the bight in the rope, and your belay loop.
○ The carabiner is locked.
○ The brake side of the rope comes out of the belay device's “bottom” end or points toward the ground, while the side that connects to the climber is on the “top” (running up from the belay device to the anchor).
● GRIGRI
○ The brake side of the rope comes out of the belay device's “bottom” end or points toward the ground, while the side that connects to the climber is on the “top” (running up from the belay device to the anchor).
○ The GRIGRI has small diagrams drawn on the metal plate to help you with this step.
○ The carabineer is through the GRIGRI and your belay loop.
○ The carabiner is locked.
4. Figure-8
The figure-8 knot is a fundamental skill in climbing and serves as the foundation for tying the double figure-8 knot, which is essential for securing a climber to a rope. Mastering the figure-8 knot is crucial for climbers as it provides a reliable connection between the climber's harness and the rope. To tie a figure-8 knot correctly, you must create a symmetrical knot that resembles the number 8, hence its name. This knot is known for its strength and ease of untying after being loaded, making it a popular choice among climbers.
Practicing the figure-8 knot is essential to ensure you can tie it confidently and correctly when climbing. Recognizing when you have tied the knot incorrectly is crucial to avoid any safety hazards while climbing. An incorrect figure-8 knot may not only compromise your safety but also the safety of your climbing partner. Therefore, identifying and rectifying mistakes in tying the figure-8 knot is a vital skill for climbers of all levels.
By mastering the figure-8 knot and understanding its intricacies, climbers can build a strong foundation for their climbing skills. It is a simple yet essential knot that forms the basis of more advanced climbing knots and techniques. Practice and familiarity with the figure-8 knot will enhance your climbing safety and boost your confidence on the wall or rock face. Remember, in climbing, attention to detail and precision in knot tying can make all the difference between a successful climb and a potential accident.
5. Double Figure-8 Knot
The double figure-8 is a self-tightening know that the climber uses to secure themselves to the rope. As a belayer, even if you have no intention of climbing, you will need to understand how to tie this properly and check that it is correct.
The typical safety check counts five pairs of parallel lines and ensures the knot is fastened approximately six inches or a fist’s distance from the harness. You’ll also want to check that the rope goes through the proper tie-in points on the harness (most rental harnesses have one loop, while personal harnesses have two loops).
6. Finishing Knot
Most rock climbing gyms require a finishing knot when tying in the climber. The standard finishing knot taught in belay classes is the double fisherman’s. However, here are three common and widely accepted finishing knot variations.
○ Double fisherman’s
○ Figure 9
○ Yosemite Finish/Tuck
Whichever variation you choose, know how to tie it confidently and correctly.
7. Pre-climb Communication between Belayer and Climber
Communication before allowing the climber to begin is a critical step. It can be formal or informal, using the commands taught in learn-to-belay classes or pre-established commands between belayer and climber. The formal commands are:
○ Climber: On-belay?
○ Belayer: Belay is on.
*Here, the climber and belayer will want to double-check each other (i.e., the belay device assembly and the climber’s knot).
○ Climber: Climbing.
○ Belayer: Climb-on.
You do not have to use the above commands as long as the communication you choose establishes the following:
○ The belayer is ready, and their set-up is safe.
○ The climber is securely fastened to the rope.
8. Post-climb Communication between Belayer and Climber
When the climber has reached the top of the climb or decides not to ascend further, they will signal for a 'take.' This crucial communication between the climber and the belayer indicates the need to remove any slack in the rope, ensuring a secure connection between the two. The term 'take' prompts the belayer to act swiftly and adjust the tension in the rope, eliminating any visible looseness that could compromise the climber's safety. Once the rope is taut and the connection is secure, the belayer will instruct the climber to begin their descent back to the ground. This process requires clear and effective communication, trust, and synchronization between the climber and the belayer to ensure a successful and safe climbing experience.
9. PBUS or PLUS Belay Method
When it comes to rock climbing safety, mastering the standard top-rope belay method is crucial. This technique, known as PBUS or PLUS, plays a fundamental role in ensuring the climber's and the belayer's security. PBUS, which stands for pull-brake-under-slide, and PLUS, which stands for Pull/Punch-lock-under-slide, are essentially two sides of the same coin. While the steps may have different names, the underlying principle remains consistent - maintaining a secure grip and control over the rope at all times.
These mnemonic cues are designed to help individuals recall the precise sequence of actions required during the belaying process. By breaking down the method into distinct steps, climbers can better internalize and execute the technique confidently. However, beyond memorizing the steps, it is imperative to truly understand the rationale behind each action. This deeper comprehension fosters a sense of responsibility and attentiveness, essential qualities for a proficient belayer.
One of the cardinal rules emphasized in top-rope belaying is the absolute necessity of never releasing the brake hand. This rule cannot be overstated, as the brake hand is the primary means of controlling the climber's descent. By adhering to this guideline unwaveringly, belayers uphold the highest standards of safety and demonstrate their commitment to the well-being of their climbing partner.
In conclusion, mastering the PBUS or PLUS belay method is not merely about memorizing a series of steps; it is about internalizing a mindset of vigilance, responsibility, and unwavering focus on safety. By approaching belaying with this holistic understanding, climbers can forge a strong foundation of trust and competence in their climbing partnerships.
10. How do you lower your climber using your chosen belay device?
When belaying a climber, one crucial aspect to always remember is the importance of lowering them down slowly. This fundamental safety practice should never be overlooked, regardless of the type of belay device being used. By lowering the climber gradually, you ensure their safety and provide a smoother descent, which can be more comfortable for the climber.
Another essential point to remember is never letting go of your brake hand while belaying. The brake hand is critical to the belaying process as it controls the climber's descent. Releasing the brake hand can lead to a sudden drop in the climber, posing a significant risk of injury. Therefore, it is imperative to maintain a firm grip on the brake hand at all times during the lowering process.
When comparing lowering a climber using an ATC versus a GRIGRI, one notable difference lies in the operation of the devices. A GRIGRI features a lever that needs to be engaged to release the cam before the climber can be brought down. This mechanism adds an extra layer of safety by requiring deliberate action to initiate the descent, reducing the likelihood of accidental drops.
Regardless of the belay device being utilized, the primary goal remains: safely returning the climber to the ground. It is essential to familiarize yourself with the specific operation of your belay device and practice proper lowering techniques to ensure a secure and controlled descent for the climber. Following these guidelines and maintaining a vigilant approach to belaying can contribute to a safer climbing experience for yourself and your climbing partner.
If you read through the ten things you should know before getting your belay certification and feel confident, you will pass your top-rope belay test with flying colors. If you feel uncertain about any of them, study and practice until you feel prepared. The great news is that the more you practice, the easier belaying becomes until it’s second nature. Most importantly, go into your certification test with confidence in your abilities. The more nervous you feel, the harder it will be to remember everything you need to. And, if you have to re-take your certification, don’t sweat about it. Many first-time belayers take a few times to pass. But belaying is an integral part of rock climbing safety, so it’s better to take your time and fully master the skills before receiving your certification. Hopefully, this blog was helpful and informative for you! Don’t hesitate to ask any lingering questions or share your thoughts below!
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